Khuzir - Olkhon Island

So the landscape of Olkhon Island is breathtaking, amazing, with endless postcard pictures. The main town of Khuzir however is the Yin to the Yang of the Island. The town is indicative of what we've seen outside of the main cities in Russia. The houses, mostly wooden structures seem only somewhat sturdy and as we saw, could go up in flames at a spark. There are no paved roads on the island and you see abandoned cars that have succumb to the elements. For such a tourist draw, Khuzir is not the modern resort town on the cliffs that you may imagine. However, as a photographer, this is a gold mine.

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Olkhon, Island - Lake Baikal

The reason we stopped in Irkutsk in the first place was because we were eager to visit Olkhon Island located in Lake Baikal. OLKHON ISLAND: (Russian: Ольхо́н, also transliterated as Olchon) is the third-largest lake-bound island in the world. It is by far the largest island in Lake Baikal in eastern Siberia, with an area of 730 square kilometres (280 sq mi). The island measures 71.5 km (44.4 mi) in length and 20.8 km (12.9 mi) in width. The population of the island is less than 1,500 and consists mostly of Buryats, the island's aboriginal people. The indigenous Buryats, adherents of shamanism, believe the island to be a spiritual place. On the western coast, close to Khuzhir, is Baikal's most famous landmark, the Shamanka, or Shaman's Rock. Natives believe that Burkhan, a modern religious cult figure of the Altai peoples, lives in the cave in this rock. The rock is one of nine Asian Most Sacred Places.

LAKE BAIKAL: (Russian: о́зеро Байка́л, tr. Ozero Baykal, IPA: [ˈozʲɪrə bɐjˈkal]; Buryat: Байгал нуур, Mongolian: Байгал нуур, Baygal nuur, meaning "nature lake"); is a rift lake in the south of the Russian region of Siberia. Lake Baikal is the most voluminous freshwater lake in the world, containing roughly 20% of the world's unfrozen surface fresh water, and at 1,642 m (5,387 ft), the deepest. It is also among the clearest of all lakes, and thought to be the world's oldest lake at 25 million years.

Many backpackers come to Irkutsk to make this journey to Olkhon, so many hostels will arrange transportation to the island which is exactly what we did. We were to be picked up at 8:30am for the 4-6 hour journey by minivan and they promptly arrived just before 9:30am. There were already 5 backpackers in the van when we got in and we stopped at one more hostel which brought the grand total to 13 squished backpackers at which point the driver put all our bags on the roof, tied down under a tarp. I'm thinking our stuff is going to go flying, or we are going to go flying. Below is a photo of our luxury van as we are stopped because oh yeah, our engine doesn't start. The driver kept stopping at every auto shop and while he spoke no English, we guess he needs a spark plug. So every time we stop, we either need to get jumped, or the boys need to push the van. This is looking good.

1 2 3 4 5So in order to get to the island, you have to take a ferry. We get to the ferry landing to find 2 long lines of cars, one line of minivans much like ours, and another line for passenger cars. Our driver says we'll be waiting for 1 hour. As we realize there are only 2 ferries and each only carries a few cars, our 1 hour turns into 3. We have time to explore.6 7 8 9 10 1113 14 15 16We also realize that this waiting period is sort of like really good reality TV. You quickly see that the men in charge of letting cars on have all the pull and have buddies looking to cut the line. Fights ensue. Russian men in fishnet tops (they are all the rage here) are suddenly shouting. But since our lovely van can't start without a push, we are victims to the cutting and vans creep in front of us. Noooo! We eventually get tied to another van and get towed onto the ferry. It just gets better. 1217So we finally make it to Olkhon. It's all dirt roads and bumpy, which explains the plush padding on the roof of the van. It's maybe another hour to our accommodations, but we finally arrive... at 7pm. We stayed at Nikita's Homestead which was quite lovely. Situated right at the edge of the lake with Shaman's Rock in view, it made for the perfect location in the town of Khuzir. All meals were included in the price and the meals were fresh, delicious, not to mention the best meals we've had in Russia. The only gripe was our room did not have a private shower because when we booked, there was only the 1 room left so we couldn't be greedy. There were communal, cold showers, but we opted to just "bathe" in the the magical waters of Lake Baikal every day. 18 19So after we threw our bags down, we checked out our "backyard." OK. The ride was 100% worth it.20 21 22 24 25The water is so clear and it feels more like a sea than a lake because you see water to the end of the horizon. However, let's not forget we are in Siberia- the water is cold! Above is Shaman's Rock and below are Shamanic poles that are nearby. 26 2723Cows are always just wandering town and enjoying the view. I am amazed at their ability to keep their footing with such steep cliffs. As the sun was setting, we headed back towards Nikita's...28 29 30When we returned to Nikita's, we found that we couldn't even get to our room because there was a performance which had gathered a crowd. 31 32Quick clip of the performance below...

Olkhon Island from Nomadic-Habit on Vimeo.

So we survived the journey to Olkhon and called it a night. More beauty to come! 33 34

Irkutsk, Russia

So we got to Irktutsk, which has been called the "Paris of Siberia," which is not only a gross exaggeration, but downright wrong. The only thing Parisian about it is a small Eiffel Tower structure on the main shopping strip.

The city is such an architectural mix with beautiful wooden buildings like this...

2 3 4 5with plenty of buildings in disrepair like this...18and beautiful brick buildings that are Brooklyn brownstone-ish / New Orleans French Quarter like this...6 7and of course mixed in with Soviet block style apartment buildings like this...9Now we all know Parisians like to shop, but this is no Avenue des Champs-Élysées.

This is the main shopping drag that houses the Eiffel Tower and megaphone announcements. The other thing I've learned here in Russia, is they love their megaphones. In Saint Petersburg and Moscow, it was all about announcing tours via megaphones, and in Irkutsk, we found that shopkeepers like to stand storefront with their megaphone announcements. Suddenly, the very quiet country of Finland is sounding nice about now.10Below are some other iphone shots taken around town. The local buses here look as if they are about to break down and are usually packed with people. Irkutsk is on the Angara River and one night as we strolled down the river, we came across an "amusement" park or should we say, a vaguely amusing park. Nothing like a dirty jump house under some telephone wires.11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20So let's just say that Irkutsk leaves something to be desired, but serves as a great gateway to Lake Baikal.

There was however one thing that really caught my eye in Irkutsk. Find out what in the next post!

Trans-Siberian Railway | Moscow ---> Irkutsk

1The Trans-Siberian Railway has long been on both of our bucket lists for a long time. We traveled 5,189 km over the course of 3 nights and crossed 5 time zones which gave us serious train lag.

2We decided to split our course to Mongolia into 2 parts. Moscow to Irkutsk (see map above), then Irkutsk to Ulaanbaator. This route would have us taking 2 different trains. The train to Irkutsk actually continues east to Vladivostok. For more information about the Trans-Siberian Railway system, this is a good resource.

We booked tickets for 2nd class with a 4 person cabin, so we were eager to see who our roommates might be. We both already knew we were assigned top bunk beds and we had no idea what to expect. Here goes nothing!

We board the train and find our roommates are already getting situated. A Russian mother and son who are very quiet, polite, and don't speak any English. They are with us the entire ride. We meet a German couple on our car and we both indulge in the difficulties we've both encountered in Russia. Their roommates are drunk a few hours in, stumbling around and we feel lucky to be sharing our space with the mother and son. So let's talk facilities...

Rick was worried early on that he would fall out of the bunk. When we arrive, we see that his railing is broken. Luckily, I brought rope and tape and he rigs a system to keep that railing intact! See our bunks and his lovely rope work below... (PS- the beds were actually quite comfortable. Probably better than our last 2 hostels. You get suited with clean sheets, a blanket, a pillow, and a face towel.)

4 5 637Each train has two bathrooms and on the other end is a samovar for all your boiling water needs. Most people are constantly drinking tea and we brought instant oatmeal and noodles for the ride. As you can see, there is a digital display with the temperature and time. Let's talk about the time. As we were passing through time zones, we were wondering when the time would adjust. The next morning, it still had not adjusted. We found a schedule on the train that listed all the stops along the way and we also found out that all train times in Russia are in Moscow time. So here we thought we'd get into Irkutsk at 4pm as our tickets said, but apparently, that was in Moscow time, which meant we were actually getting into Irkutsk at the local time of 9pm.

Surprise!

And here are our roommates who basically never left this position.

We aren't even sure if they ever ate a meal because they remained at window side with only a bag of candy.8And now for the dining car! We always romanticized the dining car... sitting endlessly, sipping coffee, overlooking the landscape. Well... besides getting ripped off on two cups of coffee and inhaling the smoke of the old women who work the car, it was a nice experience. 9 1012One night for dessert we had blini's with caviar and butter. Rick topped it off with the worst beer he said he's ever had, meanwhile one of the dining car ladies rocked a card game on her computer.11 13So let's talk train stops and stations. While we discovered the timetable for all the stops the train makes (in Moscow time) it also lists how many minutes you stop at each station. Some stops were only 2 minutes, while others were over twenty. This was important to know so if you got off the train, you made sure you boarded with good time.

I had read all these accounts on the internet of people selling local food on the platforms to which we found bogus! There were kiosks to buy small things like water, ice cream, snacks, etc. but these local vendors were all but a dream. The other interesting thing, or non interesting thing depending on how you look at it, was all the stations pretty much looked alike. All the images below were from various stations. Also, each station had an ominous voice (usually a harsh sounding Russian woman) over loud speaker which had the ability to make you feel as if you were doing something wrong without understanding a word they were saying. 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29So what did we do for 3 nights besides not shower?

We drank a lot of tea and gazed out the window.

30 31 32 33 And what did we see out the window?

We passed by many villages, all of similar decay. We were amazed that these structures and the people living in them could survive the brutal winters. There were also derelict buildings a dime a dozen along with other buildings of Soviet times.34 35 36 37 38 39 4041 42Who lives in these towns? (Please note these were all shot from a moving train!)43 44 45 46 47 4849The landscape did not change all that much until maybe the end when the land really opened up from the dense forest to give way to some really beautiful flowers.50 51 52 53 5455 56 57 58 59 60 61

So we survived the first leg of our Trans-Siberian journey!

Monday we leave Irkutsk for a 2 night train trip to Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia. Gobi here we come!

 

Family Faces

Part of this trip for me is all about connecting the dots of my family. As a first generation American, we were always traveling across oceans to visit my mother’s Finnish side and my father’s Indonesian side. These countries are not only different in matters of culture, but most noticeably, in physical features. My mother, the blonde haired, blue-eyed Finn married the tan, Indonesian with dark features and had 3 girls that have left many people confused. I’ve been asked if I am Russian, Hispanic, Hawaiian, Brazilian, and the list goes on. So who looks like who in my family? The first and last part of this trip was planned around my family’s geographic locales. The first family leg is over as we have now left Finland. The beautiful faces below are of family faces that I have thus far had the pleasure to snap in California, France, Germany, and Finland. The black and white passport photos are of my late grandmother and grandfather on my mother’s side and the painting is of my great grandfather Santeri Mäkelä.

FAMILY FACES

Double Bed Depression

We survived the Trans-Siberian Railway and while I gather all of our photos, I promised a rant on the elusive double bed... DOUBLE BED DEPRESSION: When you travel as a couple and find a crevice between the two of you because a double bed means two twin beds pushed together.

What’s up with you Europe?

We’ve been traveling for about 2.5 months through 7 countries and maybe encountered 3 true double beds where we could spoon appropriately under one blanket. True, we’ve been staying with a lot of my family/friends so any accommodations are suitable as we are guests, but when you book hostels or hotels and specify a double bed and get some variation of a double bed, the disappointment sets in. Variations include: two twin beds pushed together with separate twin bedding, two twin beds pushed together with a double size top blanket, or two twin beds pushed together with a thin double mattress on top of the two creating the illusion of a double bed only to find two twin blankets on top. Alas, these are all faux double beds. We thought for sure when we booked a Best Western in Berlin we were going to cuddle the nights away, but there we found ourselves staring at each other in grief over the “fault line,” as we like to call it.

Where are all the double beds???

Is cuddling a lost art?

(see variation # 2 below in Venice: two twin beds pushed together with a double bed blanket.)

_MG_9327Note*

I wrote this piece while on the Trans-Siberian Railway as we we slept in separate bunks for 3 days and once we reached Irkutsk and checked into our hostel, we found a TRUE double bed.

Guess we have to go all the way to Siberia for proper snuggling. Maybe because it's so cold here in the winter, they know they have to seriously cuddle up to stay alive. Snuggling for the sake of survival in Siberia.

Moscow, Russia

Remember how I said we were too old for hostels? Well...

We had already booked a hostel in Moscow that had reviews stating the location was hard to find so we decided to cancel the booking and book a "hotel" that we thought would be easier to find. WRONG. We took the high speed train from St. Petersburg and bargained with a cab driver that let us out in an alley where all signs were in Russian. We first went into the wrong hotel, only to be led to another wrong hotel to discover we needed a code to enter the actual building that housed the "hotel." We buzzed random numbers until someone buzzed us in to find an open door of the "hotel" that just looked like someone's living room with no one to be found. Great. Welcome to traveling.

So we walked around the maze of alleyways to find...

a hostel. So we had no choice- paid double of what we originally booked to find ourselves in another hostel without a window and shared bathroom.

On the up side?

Red Square and the Kremlin are amazing...

Also, I've never seen so many brides in one place at one time as we stumbled upon the Bridge of Kisses that is full of tradition. Read about it here and see the photos below...

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Saint Petersburg, Russia

We've had the worst luck with weather this entire trip. Russia was no exception.

After staring at a father and son who we shared opposing train seats with for 6 hours from Tallinn to Saint Petersburg, we promptly got ripped off by our cab driver who drove us to our overpriced hostel that had "pet" mice (why does a hostel have pet mice?! After living in NYC, the last thing I want in my living space is mice) and because the walls were so paper thin, come night, the nocturnal spinning ensued and Rick systematically dismantled the wheel of one mouse, while jamming a pencil into the  wheel of the second mouse (though I think he wishes it was into the mouse itself). We maybe had a chance at sleeping except for the teenage looking couple next door who's bed was squeaking all night (I don't even want to know).

Lesson learned? We are too old for hostels. (Especially Rick. haha)

So because of the lovely hostel experience plus the depressing weather, I barely took my camera out and because I didn't want to pay extra to bring it into the Hermitage, I used Rick's iphone for all the Hermitage photos.

Russia has been quite the challenge thus far.

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Tallinn, Estonia

Estonia, we hardly knew you. We took the 2 hour ferry ride from Helsinki to Tallinn for 2 nights for our last European stop before Russia. The weather was pretty dull so we hibernated in our cave-like quarters for most of it.

We stayed at Olevi Residence in Old Town Tallinn and in order to get to our room we had to go down a spiral staircase, through the kitchen, through a maze of hallways of bad carpet, to eventually get to our tiny room with 2 twin beds (more on my rant about the elusive double bed in Europe in a later post). It definitely felt like dungeon dwelling.

Here are the shots I did manage to get in between rain and wind.

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Finnish Forging

Finns are good with their hands. Many people here have some sort of handicraft that they do on the side. My cousin's husband Jani is the perfect example. He is a K-9 police officer by day and a blacksmith by night. In addition to beautiful hand crafted knives, Jani can whip up just about anything he wants. We had the opportunity to visit his working space which a few generations ago housed the local blacksmith. There were plenty of original tools hanging around from years past. So I had to ask...

"Can you make a bracelet?"

And so, Jani forged a personal bracelet before my eyes. Amazing.

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NORDKAPP, NORWAY

So we were already in the Arctic Circle when we got to Lapland but my uncle had other ideas that had us heading towards the north pole. Nordkapp in Norway at 71.0189° N was our destination. This post covers our drive to and from Nordkapp (About 24 hours total). The goal was to reach Nordkapp at midnight to see the midnight sun since it never goes down. We stopped along the way for photos, saw a major reindeer migration (no big deal), I took a dip in the Barents Sea (COLD!), and when we got to the picturesque cliffs of Nordkapp after our 10 hour drive, we were sitting thick in the clouds with little to no visibility and little to no luck. And then we drove home. (WHAT!?!) For another 10 hours or so. We would've liked to stop and well, sleep, but my uncle and his friend had their own ideas and wanted to head back (crazy).

So this was our speed trip to Nordkapp. I have to say that the landscape was incredible! Vast & beautiful in a sort of lonely and desolate way. I really felt like I was on top of the world.

If you want to see what Nordkapp looks like sans fog, you can find more information here.

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Lapland, Finland

After our kota + sauna + bath day, we set out for Lapland with my uncle Risto and his friend Hari. We left around 10pm for the 8 hour drive up north into the Arctic Circle with 24 hours of sunlight.

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Once we made it to our cabin, we rested up and headed to Timo's (Hari's friend) summer cabin which borders Sweden.

Risto and Timo's dog went for a dip in the river and we sipped on coffee made over the flame while I got ravaged by mosquitoes.

(The mosquitoes in Lapland are INSANE!)1 2345 67 89 10 11

Finnish Trifecta

We are in Finland right now (2 weeks in + 2 weeks to go), finally with some good internet, so take a look at what our first full day in Finland looked like (after we slept off our overnight bus from Helsinki to Äänekoski). Screen Shot 2013-07-07 at 9.02.46 PM

My uncle Risto is a true mountain man. He can make anything with his hands and he could survive in the woods with just his knife. With that being said, he also built the trifecta of Finnish heaven in the middle of a birch forest.

Sauna + Kota + Bath

A Kota is a typical Finnish teepee type house used for grilling, warmth, and it always makes for a nice gathering.

Below you can see the Kota as well as the bath (filled with water from the nearby stream). Talk about nature being restorative. Typically you would migrate between the sauna, bath, stream, etc, until you worked up your appetite for a bite in the Kota.

Tervetuloa Suomeen! (Welcome to Finland)

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